CHRISTCHURCH AND DISTRICT MODEL FLYING CLUB

reichard sport model glider

by terry antell

Wingspan - 2.5 metres, flying weight - 2.7lbs, wing loading 8.25 oz per sq foot.

Having looked at all the model parts and fittings I decided to NOT use the snakes provided for rudder and elevator operation. Being a fibreglass fuselage meant I wasn’t happy about not being able to firmly fix the snake outer to the fuz all the way. I made 2 push rods using wood dowel. Each end had a 2mm wire attached, threaded each end. It enable me to choose which end to adjust!  The wings needed no work at all. They come completely finished. One mini servo was installed in each wing cut out (JR all metal gears). I had to pull a length of servo wire through each wing panel. This I thought was going to be hell. In actual fact it was extremely easy. First, push a length of fine piano wire into the hole at the root end up to the servo well, attach servo wire and pull back. It was a doddle.Two full size servos were fitted in the fuselage after cutting a couple of sections of wood as servo rails.

Between these servos I installed a micro servo to operate the lockable tow release. This isn’t too difficult. Should you use a standard fixed tow hook (plastic type or metal) you won’t require this micro servo. Please epoxy a piece of plywood onto the floor, 50mm x 12mm will do. Make sure it’s under the approx position for the hook, being 50mm long this doesn’t have to be exactly right as 50mm will give, a) leverage to dissipate the pull from the line through the fuz and b) room for finally fitting the tow hook.  Fit the plywood BEFORE doing any servo installation. Should you only wish to slope soar the model, none of the about is required. 

The elevator is an all moving type. This is a bit fiddly, patience is a virtue, believe me. I found the point where the all moving part attaches the vertical fin to be too narrow. I made two short sections of brass tube and fitted these over the L shape all moving tail. The holes were increased (very carefully) in the vertical fin and the brass was eased through.  I ended up with a secure, slop free all moving elevator. Two slots need cutting in the vertical fin to allow actuation of the All Moving Elevator.  The rudder push rod should be fitted before fitting the AME. It protrudes through the side of the fuselage. Now fit the AME. When happy, fit the rudder post and glue using epoxy. The rudder is completely finished and covered (as is the two all moving elevator parts). The rudder is centrally hinged using hinges supplied. Now make the adjustments to the front ends of the push rods.

Cut two holes in the centre fuselage section where the wings will join. These are marked ready for cutting the holes that take the wing joiners. Follow this by cutting the two smaller holes for the wing incidence pegs in the fuselage, too. The main joiner is supported by a short piece of brass tubing. The piece I had was too short AND I didn’t have any of the same size. Easy, make two wood blocks. Slide each one on the ends of the tubing and install the whole lot in the fuz, making sure they match up to the large holes you have cut in the fuselage. Epoxy the blocks and brass in place. Insert a section of dowel in the brass to ensure it looks level when viewed from the front. You’ll never get another chance to square things up again.

I did the wing holes first, Why? Well, it allowed me to square up the AME assemble. Finally, cut two slots in the front section of the wing root on the fuz to match up with the servo wires from each wing. Allow the holes to easily take servo plugs!!!Last, but not least, make up the canopy hatch. It’s ready made but needs a piece of wire (supplied) to be epoxied to the inner front end. This wire just slips under the front hatch opening. I secure my hatch using tape at the rear. A snap button type catch is supplied but I didn’t want a hole on the fuselage so close to the opening, this would weaken the front unnecessarily.

After installing your battery (square type I recommend) assemble the completed model and check the balance point. The instruction sheet is WRONG). I followed the listed C of G position. Hell, it’s far too far forward. (Note; I’ve not said anything about fitting the tow hook yet because of this).

As mentioned, I fitted a radio releasable tow hook.  This requires cutting a slot in the fuselage to accommodate the mechanism.  I assumed the marked C of G position would be correct. The instructions and small drawing said 90mm from wing leading edge. I’ve ended up with the C of G at 110mm back from the leading edge. The tow hook was far, far too forward. I then had to cut more from the fuselage, reinforce it and reinstall the mechanism.

She flies rather well on the slope and will stay aloft in a 7mph wind, no problem. On the flat field things are good but not outstanding. The glassed wings will take a decent pull on a power winch and will move around looking for lift.  When lift is contacted I have to keep my wits about me as she soon fly’s through because it isn’t a slow machine.

I entered the model in the Rose Bowl contest.  Let’s say, I could and should have done better!

Terry Antell

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